We were allowed many peeks as the day unfolded. My family took an organized day trip, which only gives a sample of what the island has to offer, but is good for the first time. We decided on Top Tours, as it appears to be a genuine eco-tourism operator.

That January day was a little windy and overcast at times, which tempered the blazing sun. Remember, it's summer in January in Australia! The ferry docks at Moon Point, the widest part of the island at 25 miles. The gangway drops down literally onto the sandy beach, and we walked over thick, soft sand to a sandy clearing beyond the beach to an air-conditioned 4WD bus. Our driver-guide was PJ, short, dark and affable. Very knowlegeable, he succeeded in making it a pleasant day for us all.

Fraser Island, at 77 miles long and still growing, is the world's largest sand island and became a World Heritage Site in 1993. It is also the only place in the world where tall rain forests grow on sand dunes at elevations over 600 feet.

Admittedly it was peak holiday season in Australia at the time of our visit, but there were more people and vehicles on the island than we were expecting, especially on the beach area, where lots of young people were speeding around in their 4WD's. PJ told us there's always a problem with argumentative drunk drivers. "The Queensland Police regularly do speed checks and breathalyzers on the beach."

"This is a very accessible island now", he added. It's true, as it only takes 50 minutes on the ferry to cross the straits. "But people have to remember that it's still a wilderness, and the animals here are still wild animals". We all remembered the horrific story recently of a dingo attacking and killing a child.

Fraser has the second largest concentration of freshwater lakes in Australia, after Tasmania. Lake Garawongera, ringed with trees, many rushes and a small beach, has white silica sand, which is grainy "and will clean your jewellry" according to PJ. Some people tried, but most hadn't brought jewellry, us included. Our group enjoyed a brief splashing paddle in the chilling crystal-clear water.

Seventy Five Mile Beach is on the Pacific side of the island. Seemingly endless and basically flat, it is considered to be a major highway by the Queensland Roads Department. The sea is much more vigorous on this side and swimming is strongly discouraged, due to fierce currents, sharks and poisonous jelly fish. It's a beautiful beach, buffeted by high winds, with clear sea on one side and scrub-covered dunes or sand cliffs on the other. Fishermen wade in to their knees and pelicans hover hopefully.

Close to Eli Creek small Super Cubs planes congregate, hoping for passengers (A$40 for a 15-minute ride). It really seemed incongruous to have those little planes flying over the big 4WD buses to land on the beach, the backdrop the powerful ocean with one example of its prey, the Maheno.

The Maheno was built 1903-05 as a liner, then was converted into a hospital ship in WW1. In 1935 the Japanese bought her for scrap-metal but, while being towed, a cyclone broke the tow rope. She is well and truly lodged in the sand now. It's an intriguing site, as you can stand there and imagine what the ship was like in her glory days, and be humbled by the devastation wrought by the power of the ocean.

The Pinnacles is part of about 22 miles of cliffs of colored sand that have been weathered into interesting different shapes. The colors are from minerals in the sand, creating white, yellow, orange, red, black. "But, you know what?" asked PJ. "Artists have found 72 different colors". An informational board has an Aboriginal legend about how the sands were formed.

The Butchulla Aborigines inhabited this island for thousands of years before the white man came. Unfortunately, because of the very nature of the terrain, not many artefacts remain to tell their story.

Eli Creek starts about three and a half miles inland, bringing down fresh water. It runs parallel to the beach for about 200 yards before turning and emptying into the sea. A short looping boardwalk took us up the creek, pretty with lots of beach roses and trees with spaghetti-like roots. For those dying for a bathroom break, there are also toilets here.

Last was a drive in the Yidney Rain Forest, where we could walk along the sand road for about a mile, giving a chance to see some of the lush forest close up. We craned our necks, trying to catch a glimpse of birds twittering and singing, but the marvellous Australian birds were elusive that day. PJ was good about pointing out some of the trees, such as the scribbly gums, with really beautiful markings on the grey bark, just like random scribbles.

It's a unique experience to wander along the sandy track under the tall green leafy canopy, the spirit of the Aborigines somehow close. Was that the haunting call of a didgeridoo? No, just the wind.

At the end of this introductory island tour we had to agree with the Aborigines: the island is a kind of paradise. Every superlative is justified. It's great for walking, exploring by 4WD or trail bike, fishing, or just for relaxing and enjoying the natural, unspoilt beauty. Would we return? Definitely, for more peeks, and to uncover more of its wilderness secrets.

IF YOU GO

1. GETTING THERE
   Many car rental companies are located in Brisbane (Australia's third largest city), and it's an easy drive north to Hervey Bay (about 162 miles). Get information on Brisbane:
   • www.brisbane.qld.gov.au
   • www.brisbanetourism.com.au
   • www.fraserislandadventuretours.com.au for an organized Adventure Tour from Brisbane
2. ACCOMODATION AND FOOD
   We stayed in Hervey Bay, sprawled around a wide circular bay, a town which has developed to cater to seasonal whale watching excursions and trips to Fraser Island. We stayed in a fully-equipped cabin in Magnolia Caravan Park, comfortable and economical (220 Boat Harbour Drive, telephone, in Australia, 07-4128-1700). You can also camp on Fraser Island or stay in one of the island's beach resorts, such as Happy Valley, Kingfisher Bay Resort and Village-www.kingfisherbay.com- or Eurong Beach-www.fraser-is.com. Find Fraser Island accomodation information at www.fraser-island.au.com

   Along the Esplanade are hotels, holiday apartments, some stores, fish 'n chips shops, and restaurants. Between the beach and the road is a strip of park and forest, with casuarinas and other tall trees, rather pretty with some shade. Distant sandbars protect the bay, so the sea is calmer here - great for kids.

   Our favorite restaurant was The Black Dog (381 Esplanade), its motto "We'll get your tail wagging". The menu is an odd mixture of Aussie, Japanese and Thai, but the food and service are good, with excellent seafood. One evening while eating there we were lucky enough to witness a flying fox (bat) fly-out; a rushing, whirring sound and the sky literally went black as thousands of flying foxes flew overhead, on their way to some fruity feeding place inland. What an experience.

3. FRASER ISLAND TOURS
   There are many different tour groups and tour offerings to Fraser. Top Tours has day trips as well as two-day safaris. They can be found on two web sites:www.hervey.com.au and www.queensland-holidays.com.au
   Air Fraser is the leading air charter company offering tours and trips, www.fchc.com.au
   
4. MORE INFORMATION
   Lonely Planet's "Queensland" has good general information. An introduction to Fraser Island is at www.koalanet.com