Montreal's Jazz Kaleidoscope

What do Montreal, New Orleans and Chicago have in common? Great Jazz Festivals. You are invited to the annual Jazz Festival in Montreal. If it's anything like last year's festival it will be a wonderful experience and well worth attending.

WHAT? 16th annual Jazz Festival, possibly the greatest in the world, with the best jazz this side of Bourbon Street.
WHO? All jazz lovers, all music lovers. The festival has something for everyone and appeals to a wide range of tastes. There are over a million visitors during the festival.
WHEN? June 29-July 9, 1995. WHERE? Montreal, Canada. Around the Place des Arts, on rue Ste-Catherine and rue Jeanne Mance. The musicians have the streets as their stage.
WHY? There is an added bonus: you do not need to leave North America to get the flavor of Europe here.

This is one of the greatest musical and cultural events on the calendar, in a city that is a wonderful tourist venue in its own right, even without the drawing card of the jazz festival. Montreal is called a festival city and this is the greatest festival of them all. It is sponsored by du Maurier Ltee and Labatt Bleu, and the delightful kitty cat logo in its many forms decorates the area, from billboards, to flags, to T-shirts.

There is a contagious spirit of fun and adventure during the festival. The concerts that cover the gamut of jazz styles bring together jazz fans of all ages in a musical jazz odyssey. Cool sounds, red-hot sounds, smokey beats, and sultry voices blend together into a unique jazz experience.

For 10 days the streets around the Place des Arts are barricaded between noon and the early hours of the morning. Music originates from nine outside stages specially erected at strategic points on the streets, for use by about 1, 000 lesser-known artists, giving at least 50 free concerts daily, in addition to five indoor concert halls, played in the past by big names such as Miles Davis and Dizzy Gillespie.

There are many concessions and food stands, a wine and beer garden (Le Bistro Vins et Fromages), and many fun activities for kids, such as a musical park (with games in the form of musical instruments, and interactive sound instruments), truly imaginative face painting, and a chance to meet zany clown characters.

It is such a lively, vibrant affair that it is music to the eyes and soul as well as to the ears. On the streets there is a constant sense of anticipation, that something exciting and different will happen, and it does when the music plays. The sounds of trumpet, trombone, saxophone, tuba, clarinet, and banjo blend into a foot-stomping whole. At other times, poignant sounds float and drift, yearning music speaking to the soul.

Even though there can be upwards of 100,000 people on any given day, the crown was amazingly well-behaved, manageable and safe, a great feeling in such a seething, pushing mass of people having fun without being destructive. Security is good, and the whole festival area is clean and well organized.

Lots of older folk, many kids, and babies in strollers mingle in with the other jazz lovers. People from all walks of life and all cultures converge here - the festival is a great mixer.

If you are new to jazz or want to learn more about the various styles of jazz music, a sampling of the variety presented here should open your eyes to the creative excitement that makes this improvised music so appealing. It is a chance to decide what you like or dislike and a good way to learn about different musical styles, from rock-'n-roll, to rhythm and blues, to dixie, to light classical.

There are groups, and individual performers, with magical, evocative names like Sweet Dixie, Saroumbon, Orquesta Pambiche, Africamania, Powder Blues, and the Klezmatics. African, Cuban, Yiddish, Latin, and gypsy influences weave their way in and out of the new sounds.

The improvised nature of jazz music is unique in that the listener is invited to experience the creative process of the performers, to share each new musical adventure with the group composing for the audience.

As you make your way through the various sites at Jazz '95, approach each concert as a listening adventure. "Have I heard this before? Is the ensemble playing tunes based on standards? Is there a consistent tempo, or are they playing more freely?"

One thing is certain: if you listen to jazz music with an open mind and ear you will begin to learn and recognize more of the jazz vocabulary. You will be delighted by this rich communicative music that has entertained and enriched audiences for at least 100 years.

GENERAL PRACTICALITIES

Montreal is in Quebec, the French-speaking part of Canada. However, English is widely spoken and many people are fully bilingual. The parts of the city that tourists will most likely visit are between the St.Lawrence River and the mountain, Mont Royal (from which the name Montreal comes).

The Old City is around the old port area, the more modern city closer to the mountain. Public transport is good, especially the wonderful metro system, which is fast and efficient and allows you to get to most areas. Buy a carnet 9book of tickets) the first time you use the system. In old Montreal you can ride a caleche (horse-drawn carriage).

The Place des Arts is in the modern part of Montreal, but still within walking distance of Old Montreal. It is also close to the Latin and student quarters, which offer other entertainment and plenty of restaurants in all price ranges. It has a metro stop and is connected to the amazing Underground City of Montreal, a veritable maze of inter-connected shopping and business complexes, which is so practical, especially in winter.

OFF THE BEAT(EN) JAZZ TRACK

  1. HOW TO GET THERE
    It's best to fly in. Montreal has two international airports, Dorval and Mirabel, and is served by many airlines. From the northeast USA and the northern Midwest it is also possible to drive.
  2. WHERE TO STAY
    • Hotel Meridien, 4 Complexe Desjardins, right opposite the Place des Arts. Tel. 800-543-4300. Expensive, but well-located.
    • Hotel Des Gouverneurs, 1415 rue St.-Hubert (at Ste-Catherine and place Dupuis). Tel. 800-463 2820. Moderate.
    • Travelodge, 50 bd. Rene-Levesque ouest (at Clarke). Tel. 800-363-6535. Inexpensive.
    • Many others, not as close to the festival.
  3. WHERE TO EAT
    Montreal is an eater's paradise with many of the world's cuisines represented.
    • Chinatown, close to Place des Arts, has many choices, as does Old Montreal, especially in and around place Jacques-Cartier. Try La Maison Cartier, 407 place Jacques-Cartier; La Sorosa, 56 Notre-Dame ouest; Chez Better, 160 Notre Dame est.
    • Rue Prince-Arthur, near Square St.Louis, has many ethnic eateries. Many are not licensed, but allow you to take your own bottle. There is a liquor store conveniently located on the street.
  4. WHAT ELSE TO VISIT
    • Notre Dame Basilica, and Place Jacques-Cartier in Old Montreal.
    • McCord Museum of Canadian History, 690 rue Sherbrooke ouest (at Victoria).
    • The Olympic Complex and Botanical Garden.
    • Mont Royal, for the view.
    • St. Joseph's Oratory, 3800 chemin Queen Mary.
  5. WEATHER
    Even in summer the weather can be cool and wet, so come prepared. An umbrella and raincoat are essential.
  6. MORE INFORMATION
    Talk to your travel agent, or call INFO-JAZZ (514) 871-1881 or INFOTOURISTE 7 days a week, 9am-5pm Eastern, at 800-363-7777


Images and Text copyright Vivienne Mackie, 2001.
No reproduction, electronic, written or otherwise, without prior written consent.


Back to Canada Travel Articles...