In summer 2004, in Colmar, Alsace, another Statue of Liberty was erected and dedicated. Over the years, this very special region in northeast France has been alternately in French and German hands, and as a result has developed its own special culture and cuisine (such as the flame cakes). The area is also famous for white wine, and in autumn the hills are ablaze as the leaves on the vines change color.
Throughout his life, Bartholdi was obsessed with liberty. After his native Alsace was taken over by Germany in 1871 he understood what it meant to have liberty taken away and how important liberty was. Bartholdi is one of the local heroes in Colmar (others are Roesselmann, Rapp, and Martin Schongauer). A museum is dedicated to him, and he designed many of the fountains dotted around the town (such as Fontaine Roesselmann, the Schwendi Fountain, and Fontaine du Vigneron).
He traveled in Egypt a couple of times, and used a pseudonym there: Amilcar Hasenfratz. He also did many busts of famous people, such as Lafayette and Washington, as well as paintings and drawings. He was obviously a very talented man who worked in a variety of different artistic media.
Colmar is a lovely town to visit anyway, but now you can also learn a little bit of American history there. The old part of the city is not that big really---easily walkable--- and is full of its own history. Old timber-frame buildings, dark wooden beams with the plaster in between painted in different colors, line the narrow cobblestone streets, cluster around the massive pinkish-orange sandstone Cathedral St-Martin, and follow the river and small canals. The places along the water are really pretty, with thousands of bright flowers in pots and planters reflected in the water.
One of the famous regional specialities is tarte flambee, Alsace's Flame Cakes (flammenkuchen). They're circular, almost like a very thin pizza, spread with cheese, onion, cream and a topping, and ideally cooked in an open wood fire oven. Favorite toppings are chevre (goat cheese), escargots (snails), crevettes (shrimp), and flambˆÉ¬© au Nordique (with smoked salmon). Add a green salad, and a local beer (such as Binding, Franziskaner Weissbier, or Dorelei) and you have a wonderful, tasty meal. Prices are very reasonable, ranging from 7-10 Euros each.
Two good places to sample this delicacy in Colmar are both in the Little Venise area. We tried both and enjoyed them. Le Roesselmann (named after a local hero, who lost his life in 1261 fighting against the soldiers of the bishop of Strasbourg) is on Place des Six Montagnes Noires (Square of Six Black Mountains), just at the end of Rue Turenne. At La Krutenau, on the canal just steps away (1, rue de la Poisonniere), you can watch the young girl prepare and cook the tarts in a wood oven. It's very peaceful sitting right next to the water, perhaps with a gondola swishing quietly by, swallows circling above, and the sound of kids laughing.
NOTE: The Statue of Liberty in New York, closed to the public after the events of 9/11, re-opened to visitors on August 3, 2004.
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