Gorgeous Gila: Gila Forest and Cliff Dwellings

I'm standing on a wide ledge, halfway up a steep cliff with openings into caves, and my companion is saying, "Come on, climb the ladder." A rough wooden ladder leads up to what? I decide to find out. Within are famous cliff dwellings, and we can climb up to get a glimpse of a lost world built around 700 years ago. The logs of the ladder are fairly recent, but most of the timbers in the dwellings are the originals, with tree ring dates from the late 1270's and 1280's.

This was the scenario the day we went to Gila National Forest and Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in southwest New Mexico. Join us on a trip good for all ages. Pack up a picnic and experience a small part of Native American history in a stunning natural setting.

We went from Las Cruces on a fairly long day trip, but this could also be approached from many places in the southern half of the state. Leaving Las Cruces, NW on I-10, there are mountains all around in an arid scrubland with many yuccas. Huge, black, orange, and yellow multiple billboards adorn the edge of the highway, advertising fireworks and various tourist handicraft stores such as Akela Flats, a kitschy-looking place. We go through Deming, which has a colorful local Sunday flea market graced by many fluffy baby donkeys and a variety of goods for sale in stalls or from the back of pickup trucks. It is also the town where much spring water is bottled. People in this area go in for bottled water in a big way, apparently because the local water is very hard, which eventually affects the teeth. Turn north and do a loop up the Mimbres River Valley through Mimbres town into the Gila Forest Preserve to the Gila Cliff Dwellings and then back south through Silver City to Deming. The vegetation changes quite dramatically from arid semi-desert ringed by bare mountains to semi-grasslands along the river valley to dense juniper and pine forest clothing steep mountains. The Mimbres River Valley is pretty in the fall with colorful cottonwood trees along the river, many flowering yellow chollas (cactus), small apple orchards, and little mission churches painted white. Many large rock formations give a hint of what is to come. Other noticeable features are cattle guards, which can be bumpy to cross, and frequent advertising by different outfitters' groups offering local trips off the beaten track.

Once in the Forest Preserve, the road twists and turns, swoops and dives, giving some interesting views and a few butterflies in the stomach if you tend that way! After all, you are crossing the Continental Divide. There is a great lookout point to a vista of rolling, wooded mountains and valleys, rock formations, and rocky canyons. In late fall there may be snow on the higher elevations. Go first to the Gila Cliff Dwellings Visitors' Center, which has a display and a small bookstore but no food. You do a self-guided loop (using the 50 cent booklet) which takes at least an hour, more if you walk slowly and look at the site carefully. First cross the small river (which is nice later for fishing, paddling, and skipping rocks) and then follow the rocky path that zigzags up through the forest along the edge of the canyon to the mountain rock face above on the other side of the canyon. It's fairly steep in places and may be quite a difficult hike for some but quite possible with time and care- a strenuous adventure rather! Going down is also quite steep and could be treacherous if wet. Even in fall it can be rather hot, so you would need to be extremely careful in summer and go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. It's essential to carry a water bottle, too. If you're very lucky, on your way up you may see some white-tailed deer, lovely creatures with huge ears, soft eyes, and flickering tails. It's interesting to think that the Native Americans of this area long ago may have hunted the ancient ancestors of these deer. Elk hunting is popular in the fall, and you may see some of the prizes going home, tied to the roofs of various four-wheel drive vehicles.

The way up to the cave cliff dwellings is along the side of the river opposite to the cliff dwellings with many wonderful views as you walk along. These places must have been fairly easy to defend, but imagine having to bring up all the food and water needed. The natural caves here were used for various purposes, and we could enter two of the five previously inhabited caves to get a good sense of the design and layout of the 42 rooms constructed of stone and mud mortar and quite remarkably well-preserved. Many of the buildings in the caves are two stories, and most rooms had a hearth with a fire to try and combat the winter chill. Many rooms had "windows" used for air, light, or as lookouts. There were apparently no kivas (rooms devoted to secret religious ceremonies and tribal council meetings, often entered through the roof) here, but there is evidence of corn storage, some possibility of cave paintings (not mentioned in the guide), and a huge flat area used as a stage/entertainment area or a children's play area. It's a magical, mystical feeling to be in the same place as the Mogollon Indians were in the late 13th century. I decided it was worthwhile to climb that ladder and could imagine the Indians farming their squash, corn and beans and hunting and gathering wild plants and fruits. They were gone by the early 1300's. Why did they leave and where did they go? No one is entirely sure of the answer although a number of theories have been suggested. One such theory is the possibility of failed crops, or perhaps something frightened them away. Modern voices echoing in the canyon replayed the laughter of so long ago.

If you're hungry afterwards, you can stop at Doc Campbell's Trading Store, just outside the Forest Preserve, for a hot snack warmed up in the microwave. There are also a number of good books and curios. The loop back is through even denser forest and an even more twisting road which is actually very beautiful but probably not advisable at night. The Cliff Dwellings National Monument is open all year except December 25 and January 1. Entrance to the park is free, but entrance to the actual cliff dwellings is $3 per adult (children under 12 free). Call (505) 536-9461 for current information on hours. The web site is www.nps.gov (lists all national parks). For City of Las Cruces Information call (505) 526-0000 or visit www.las-cruces.org