'Lobos' in Spanish means 'wolf'. Perhaps there were wolves here once, but the name refers to the sea lions. Spanish for sea lion is 'lobos marinos'. Sea wolf? Is that any stranger than the English sea lion?
Author of 'Kidnapped' and 'Treasure Island', Robert Louis Stevenson spent time in Monterey in 1879. Some believe that Long John Silver's Island Is based in part on locations he visited in Point Lobos.
If the lure of Long John Silver isn't enough, there are many other reasons to visit this reserve, small but unique in many ways. So it is fitting to finish exploring the greater Monterey Bay shoreline here. On a peninsula at the northern end of the Big Sur coast, it's home to an amazing diversity of animals (over 250 different species) and plants (over 350 species), and famous for the dramatic and rugged topography. But, you don't need the numbers to see the richness of this reserve: just walk. You will see California sea lions and Harbor seals offshore and on the rocks, see and hear birds swooping and diving, spot California otters playing in the carpets of seaweed. If you are lucky, you may see grey whales, which also frequent the area. Deer, squirrels, and rabbits scuffle in the undergrowth, and a fresh pine smell wafts on the air. Many cormorants and a large flock of brown pelicans fly over, a wonderful thing to see. You'll pass many plants adapted to this special coastal climate---Monterey cypress, Monterey pine, seaside daisy and bluff lettuce. There are only two stands of native Monterey cypress in the world: in Point Lobos, and along the 17-Mile Drive at Cypress PoInt and Crocker Grove.
More than half the reserve is designated an underwater reserve. The erosion of granite rock joints caused the jagged appearance of the coast here, and created spectacular caves, prized by scuba divers. Diving is possible only with a permit. Phone for reservations: 831-624-8413.
THE TRAILS
This part of nature is unspoiled as there's no building in the reserve and no picnicking allowed, except in the parking areas.--In about 2 miles you can explore the reserve's northern perimeter via Carmelo Meadow, Granite Point, and Moss Cove Trails. Close by is the Whalers Cabin museum.
--The Cypress Grove Trail is hilly and rocky but has well-maintained steps and you get wonderful seaviews. On the way to the grove of famous cypress trees note many birds roosting on the rocks offshore.
--Sea Lion Point Trail is probably the most well-used. From the parking lot (which has a good informational booth staffed by docents) it takes about 20 minutes out to the point. Across the cove you'll see a solitary cypress, clinging to the headland, as does the famous one on the 17-Mile Drive. Even if it's foggy, it's worth the walk to see all the bobbing black sea lion heads in the water and to hear them barking and grunting. Sometimes the sea is quite wild against the rocks, pounding and lashing, white-topped. The rocks here are amazing---a type of aggregate that really does look man-made, as though someone has taken huge slabs of concrete and stuck stones and pebbles of all shapes and sizes into the mix. It's rather other-worldly, a kind of lunar landscape.
--Another great walk is the Bird Island Trail with many little wild flowers and patches of coastal vegetation. It passes by China Cove with its almost impossibly green water, a big contrast to the blue of the sea (at least in the sunshine). The sea erodes the rock walls, creating strange shapes and a number of natural rock bridges and arches. As the name suggests, Bird Island is teeming with birds and covered in guano,. The view south along the Big Sur coastline is glorious.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Web site: http://pt-lobos.parks.state.ca.us/index.htmlThree miles south of Carmel on SR 1, it's small, around 1,300 acres of land and water along the rugged coastline. Maps available at entrance gate. $7 per private car. Daily 9am-6:30pm, Memorial Day-Labor Day; 9am-5pm , rest of the year. Tel 831-624-4909
You can drive in and park at one of three parking lots to walk some of the well-marked trails along the cliffs. Or, if you are feeling energetic, you can park outside the gate and hike all the way around the reserve's perimeter. It's about 6-7 miles and will take 2-3 hours minimum, depending how often you stop to 'ooh and aah'.
Anytime of year the weather can change quickly and dramatically---from sunny, to foggy, cool and windy---so bring a jacket. Binoculars are also very useful.
Images and Text copyright Vivienne Mackie, 2005.
No reproduction, electronic, written or otherwise, without prior written consent.
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