This
couple decided to make their relationship legal and saved up "for ages" so
they could "do a really good one in the church." It was a unique
experience for us, as Shona and British Colonial cultures intertwined in
this joyful wedding ceremony between two of my brother-in-law's three
domestic workers. The Harare, Zimbabwe wedding occurred the Saturday we
arrived from the USA. My sister-in-law and niece were very involved,
making computer invitations, cooking the cakes and chickens, and driving
the couple to the church. The wedding party was even happier when I
brought out my camera and offered to take some casual pictures. She is
April (but everyone calls her Apil, sounds like "apple") from the Shona
tribe, and he is Victor, a Mozambican with some Portuguese blood, although
he is now also Shona. She is dark skinned, buxom and extraverted; he is
slight and quiet, with a pencil-thin moustache. April and Victor both
speak pretty good English and she loves having long conversations with the
"sirs and madams" of the house, as she calls them, using terms remnant of
the country's colonial heritage. An
unfinished African Apostolic-type church on the edge of Harare is the
venue for After
the sermon, there's a ring exchange in front of the cake table, on which
lie three fruitcakes topped with bright yellow icing on a metal cake tray,
which in turn is covered with a white net cloth. The bride and groom sign
the register and the certificates in full view of everyone. While they do
so, the guests chant, "Welcome, welcome, welcome" in unison, creating a
moving sound with ululations and a few trills. The bride cuts the yellow
cake and they feed each other small pieces; she feeds him one small piece,
but he feeds her about six, which causes great laughter. Next
the whole wedding party gets involved in a sort of line-dancing with
partners and a caller. The guests dance slowly in full body movements up
and down the aisle, with so much clapping, chanting and shouting that they
almost drown out the jazz music playing on the big, old-fashioned radio.
The rhythm master stands, clapping vigorously and tapping his foot. It's
all very joyous and powerfully moving. The congregation joins in,
especially the women, who dance on the edge of the aisle, either singly or
in pairs.
My
sister-in-law takes April and Victor for wedding photographs in Harare
City Gardens and we all wait outside the church. Everyone is very
interested in us. The men come over, say hi and shake hands. Kids follow
us around and practice their few words of English ("Hallo" and "How are
you?"). Victor
is dropped off and goes into the church. We wait expectantly. The bride
returns in the Toyota Hi-Ace and treads on a path of brightly patterned
cloths laid on the dirt to the door. I follow to witness the grand
entrance of the bride, who meets the groom at the entrance. They walk down
the aisle, now strewn with the same brightly patterned cloths, and the
attendants follow. The guests sing, chant and ululate again, dancing and
clapping with uninhibited abandon. We feel honored to be part of such an
inspiring, uplifting ritual. Every stage of the event involves the guests,
with people walking around, chatting, dancing or singing as the spirit
moves them. It's an unusual mixture of formal ritual, yet relaxed. We sit
on the front pew next to April's paternal uncle (her representative, as
her We
wonder about a small table and two chairs next to the stage. We're told
the setup is for the next event, in which money is raised for the couple.
The event is a challenge of sorts between families and groups to raise the
bid amount, with the aim of raising Z$15,000 (we heard the next day the
couple received the incredible sum of Z$15,305). Contributions vary from
Z$20-100 to Z$400-1,000, with a few of the more well-off adding as much as
Z$2,000 to the matrimonial pot. (At the time of our visit, the exchange
rate was US$1 = Z$38; many domestics earn between Z$600-700 per month). The MC and his
helper are real live wires who fire up the guests. People also come up on
the stage with presents, wrapped mostly in newspaper. The two men open the
top of the gift to call out what's inside so that their helpers at the
recording table can write it all down. Excitement mounts. They get lots of
bowls, dishes, cups and glasses, plasticware and dishcloths -- all very
acceptable. The next day April and Victor spread them out in their small
living room and ask us to go and look. They are more than satisfied with
their ceremony and proud that it had been "a very big, very blessed
event."
"You know
that marriage is sacred, yes? And you must help each other, yes?" The
minister smiles, and everyone nods in agreement. He speaks in Shona, but
the church's PR man translates some of it for the benefit of the honored
guests -- us. "More children are not essential for a good marriage." Everyone smiles and nods again, as they all know that the couple already
has twin daughters, and she an older daughter from another relationship.
both the wedding ceremony and the reception that follows. The building
consists of a brick facade with a small gable in front, a dirt garden and
parking area, with the inside offering up a hard-packed dirt floor, two
round windows high up at the entrance and a simple large hall with rows of
plain wooden pews on either side of a center aisle. The bridal table, in
front of the altar stage, is decorated with a white lacy cloth and three
vases of gorgeous white carnations and lilies, arranged by the third
domestic worker, who is the gardener.
The men wear
black or cream suits and boutonnieres. April has a Western-style white
wedding dress -- long and lacy with a veil, extensive train (fondly called
"the tail"), artificial flower bouquet and white pump shoes. Her sister,
the maid of honor, is in a long cream suit and matching wide-brimmed hat,
while the four flower girls sport lacey cream dresses and new white shoes.
The five bridesmaids are all very formal in shiny blue dresses trimmed in
white lace and net coronets with a big bow at the back, while the
groomsmen don black tuxes. Guests are in their best clothes, many with
ethnic embroidery, and some of the older women wear bandana-turbans on
their heads. Little girls tend to prefer frilly pink dresses.
father
died a few years ago), a Muslim in his little cap who sits quietly and
smiles all the time. Her mother, in a black dress and colored turban, is a
real character, jumping up and dancing and taking part in everything.
Ladies in the back corner of the hall bend over big black cooking pots,
which contain the wedding feast food -- rice, a little home-cooked tomato
sauce, coleslaw, fried chicken and beef cut into large chunks -- all
served on big enamel plates with plastic forks. They give us a huge
serving, far more than most of us can finish. We're served first, but
can't start eating until the bridal table is all served. We all get our
own bottle of Fanta or Pepsi, proudly opened from a case of bottles. No
alcohol is served at all.
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